Day 19 – Cruising the Atlantic En-Route to Buenos Aries

Day 19 – Cruising the Atlantic En-Route to Buenos Aries

Today is our last day at sea as we arrive at our final port, Buenos Aries, tomorrow. Lima does not seem that long ago, apparently time flies when you are having fun, wish it didn’t! The agenda for today is the Connoisseur Wine and Food Pairing and not much else, a part from the usual cigar and dinner.

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This is my second  Connoisseur Wine and Food Pairing on a Regent Ship, it is an event that is chargeable as we get to taste the premium wines on board, the food is always included. I find that doing this on the last day of the cruise a bit strange as, if I was trying to encourage the passengers to purchase the premium wines on board, I would hold this earlier and offer a discount to those who partake in the tasting. On my previous cruise on the Navigator, the tasting was held with about 5 or 6 days left, so you could be tempted, and I was, to purchase a bottle or two for an extra special dinner. Just an idea.

The wines were selected by Gerry, our excellent Cellar Master, and the food pairing was the responsibility of the Executive Chef Jonathan. Let me know what you think of the line up and the food pairing.

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A nice touch, an improvement in my opinion, was a the drink map or legend. This was the first time I had seen this used on board, although a friend of mine does the same in his bar, The Auld Alliance, in Singapore for his tasting sets, will write about them another time.

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What better way to start a tasting than with a glass of bubbles, in this case a 2003 Moet & Chandon “Cuvée Dom Pérignon”. Apparently 2003 was not great vintage in Europe, but I found that this did not have an impact on this wine. It is not a subtle champagne, possibly because of the higher than usual amount of Pinot Noir used, also possibly a reason that I really enjoyed it. People around the table were mentioning apricot, honey and chamomile notes, also a number of them did not enjoy the wine, a bit too much for some! The on board price for this is USD199.

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The food pairing with this was Prawn stuffed with Crab and Sevruga Caviar and a Hibiscus Vinaigrette, the left side of the dish below. It tasted better than it looks, and worked well with the wine.

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Next up we had the 2011 Louis Jadot, Puligny Montrachet A.O.C., Chardonnay, Cote de Beaune, Burgundy. I am not a fan of Chardonnay, probably because of the mainstream Chardonnay produce by Australia, but as it was on offer, I had to give it taste, and I am glad that did. The nose is interesting and I found that there were lemon, mineral and apple notes, with only a little butter, so this was a good start. Some of the other people mentioned getting stone fruit and vanilla notes. The wine was balanced and not overly acidic, with an enjoyable long finish. Needs lobster. On board price USD70

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And lobster is what Johnathan paired it with, Ceviche of Lobster with Fennel, Herb Aioli and Orange Vanila Syrup, on the right side of the dish below. Another spot on pairing, not sure if Johnathan got to taste the wine or just went off the advice and notes provided by Gerry, but he is two from two so far.

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Next up was the first red, which was a 2010 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia Bolgheri from Tuscany. YES!! This is a Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) and Cabernet Franc (15%) blend. First off the colour and the nose, a nice deep red with blackberry and floral notes, I have no idea what anyone else found as I was enjoying it too much. The sweetness of the fruit, smooth tannins and long, very enjoyable, finish show why this wine is so highly rated, the kicker is the price, USD242, but if you get a chance to try it, go for it!!

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The pairing for this wine was Waygu Meatball with Marinara and Mozzarella Buffala. The wine and the Waygu went well together, the cheese added to the enjoyment.

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We were half way through the tasting and all I wanted to do was to have another taste (well a glass or two) of Sassicaia, guess I will just have to get over it and move on to the next wine in the line up, which was the 2007 Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Cru Classe Graves, Pessac-Leognan. First thing I noticed was the colour which was very dark, I did not get as much on the nose as I did with Sassicaia, which is to be expected, but this was still a very good wine. Nicely balanced tannins and fruit, but, in my opinion, it was not as good as the previous wine. Expect that if I had tasted this separately I would have been raving about it. On board price USD140.

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The pairing with this was a “Bruno Style” Open Faced Beef Saltimbocca. Not exactly sure about the Bruno Style, but believe it could be the way that one of Johnathan’s cooking inspirations prepared his Beef Saltimbocca. Enjoyed this dish!

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When I saw the line up for the wines, the next wine was one that caught my eye. I have heard a lot about Opus One from the Nappa Valley, we were tasting the 2009, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (81%), Cabernet Franc (9%), Petit Verdot (5%), Merlot (4%) and Malbec (1%). This is a flagship wine of the Baron Philippe de Rothschild & Robert Mondavi joint venture, so it should be up there as a great wine. The wine has a deep ruby colour with dark chocolate and currant notes, some of the others around the table obviously have more sensitive noses than me as they were picking up olive and rosemary as well. I found the wine to be dry and a little dusty, with dark fruit and spice flavours and long finish. I think we were drinking this a bit too early, will love to try it in a few more years to see how it develops. The wine did not “wow” me, but was very enjoyable, with age who knows. On board price USD225.

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The pairing for this one was not what I was expecting, but the Chef knows his stuff. We had a Surf and Turf Nacho with Chilean Seabass and Tenderloin Steak, this was my favourite of the dishes we had as a part of the tasting.

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The reds, side by side, the first one is on the left, second in middle and, you guessed it, the third on the right.

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For the final wine we were treated to a 2003 Chateau d’Yquem 1er Cru Classe Sauternes. When it comes to Sauternes, d’Yquem is regarded as one of the best, if not the best. It has deep golden colour with honey and caramel notes, this wine is full bodied with vanilla, burnt sugar and honey flavours, the finish is very long and just keeps going, awesome. This was a great wine to finish off the tasting. Really enjoyed it, and so did a number of people who do not usually enjoy a sticky, just wish I could afford this stuff. A 375ml bottle on board goes for USD286.

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The Chef’s final pairing was a very tasty Field Berry Flan, Vanilla Crème Anglaise, which was another perfect pairing.

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Gerry, her Sommeliers and the Chefs on board did a great job, only wished we had a few more wines to taste 🙂

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My wine of the day was the Sassicala, followed by the d’Yquem and could not separate the Dom from the Chateau Smith Haut Lafitt. It is nice to have so many great choices, life is hard out here on the high seas 🙂

Day 18 – Cruising the Atlantic En-route to Buenos Aires – Night

Day 18 – Cruising the Atlantic En-route to Buenos Aires – Night

Tonight is the Captain’s Farewell Reception and Krew Kapers. This always a fun night.

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Captain Felice Patruno and a troublesome passenger (me).

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Apologies for the bad photography, but as I was late getting to the theatre I was not able to get a seat near to the stage so that I could take decent photos.

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Being a member of the Krew Kapers is a badge of honour for a large number of the crew, they hold auditions and practice every day during breaks and after work, which is impressive as a day on board, for the majority of the crew, starts before breakfast around 5:30am and, with a few breaks in between dinner services, continues through until 12am / 12:30am for a large part of the crew. If a crew member does not get through the auditions, they keep practicing so that next time, if they are lucky, they get selected for the Krew Kapers on another cruise.

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The crew is from countries all over the world and they perform traditional dances from the homes

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Plus some rock classics. The entire show is put on by volunteers, none of the cast on board take part.

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There are some very talented people in the crew, which makes you wonder why they are not performing somewhere

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This guy is from Bali I believe, must be hot in the costume under the lights.

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The entire cast singing and dancing, taking the mickey out of the things that passengers say, there is always something new 🙂

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After the Krew Kapers are finished, the Captain and Officers take charge to say goodbye to us all.

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Jamie, the Cruise Director, introducing the Crew

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As usual it was a great night. Next time I will have to make sure that I am earlier so that I can get a better position. There is always next cruise!

Day 18 – Cruising the Atlantic En-route to Buenos Aires

Day 18 – Cruising the Atlantic En-route to Buenos Aires

Today was another sea day, I was expecting it to be a very quiet day before the Krew Kapers and the Captain’s Farewell Reception, but that changed when the Tony, the guy I became close with as a part of the Rafting and the same guy who I was bidding against for the wine and cheese tasting, invited me to join their tasting. Unfortunately one of the people he invited was not able to join them because they were ill.

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The format was the same as our previous tasting, whites followed by the reds, we got to enjoy the same wines as before, but no Summus, will have to find another bottle somewhere else.

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As usual Gerry was entertaining, and took us through the wines and how they are classified.

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Whilst I had heard it before, it was still entertaining and helped me to pick up on the parts I missed previously

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This group was good fun as well, and I got to meet a retired US Navy Submariner, who happened to be a Rear Admiral when he retired.

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Had another great time.

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Thanks Tony for the invite and thanks to Gerry and her team yet again. Time for a cigar and scotch

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Today we finished off the bottle of Strathisla 25 that I bought with me from Singapore. This was a great drink, you can’t stop at one dram. This is another bottling by independent bottling by Gordon and MacPhail and is well worth it. I found it to be very smooth, with dark sugar / aged rum flavours, with a nice full / long finish. The shame is that today we finished the bottle, so no more. The scotch went very well with our cigars. Time now to get into a suit for tonight’s activities

Day 17 – Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

Day 17 – Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

Today is one of the days that I have been looking forward to as I have always been interested in the Falklands, the War between Argentina and the UK as well as why the British colonised a set of islands in the middle of the Atlantic. The Falklands main industry is sheep farming, there over 700,000 sheep on the islands and only around 3,000 people on the islands, a greater ratio of sheep to people than New Zealand!

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Port Stanley does not have a wharf suitable for a ship the size of the Mariner, so we anchored in a bay not far from the Port and used tenders to get ashore.

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My tour today was of the Battlefields on the main island, it was a bus tour with a guide who has been living in Stanley for around 30 years, he is ex-British Military, but did not serve in the Falklands, which did not mean his knowledge of the events associated was lacking, it was first-rate. Due to time constraints we, unfortunately, did not get to visit West Falkland, also were not able go to Goose Green, the site of one of the most significant engagements during the war, but what we did get to see was still very interesting.

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The Falklands is not the sort of place that I would recommend to anyone looking for an Island Holiday with beaches and Cocktails, it is summer and I was  frozen, thankfully I had enough clothing on to stop the cold.

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The first part of the tour was a bus trip out to the a point on the western side of East Falkland were we could see San Carlos, the point where the first British Special Forces landed and established a beach head on the island. The residents of the farm there housed and fed the lads before they started their covert mission to establish lookouts at various positions around the area in preparation for the landing of the forces that would re-take the Falklands.

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When I was starting out in the workforce I was lucky enough to work with members of the Australian SAS, and was always impressed by their ability to do what normal people could never consider possible, what the British SAS did during the Falklands made me realise that even after what I seen these guys do, I still had not come even close to understanding how good these guys really are.

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From San Carlos the various reconnaissance teams spread out and occupied vantage points around the area to observe the Argentinian forces who were occupying the islands. These teams were on the islands for weeks before the main force arrived and we were shown one of the observation outposts, just under the peak of the hill in the photos above, where 4 SAS Troopers observed, undetected, for weeks an Argentinian outpost where they had landed two helicopters, a Chinook and a UH-1H Iroquois, and then quickly camouflaged them. The problem was that the SAS Troopers were watching and passed the exact location of the two choppers back to the fleet that was steaming from England. The 4 troopers were holed up in their observation post for weeks, less than a 500 metres from the position of the choppers and the troops supporting them.

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As well as the Argentine Troops below them supporting the choppers, the Argies had established their own outpost on the ridge directly above them, but never knew about the SAS. When the fleet arrived, the SAS informed them of the location of the two camouflaged choppers, the results of the air strike are in the photos below. Since 1982 the scavengers of the human kind have acquired the more valuable components within the wreckage, this is what is left of the chinook

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As there is a minefield around the wreckage of the  UH-1H Iroquois the scavengers have not acquired all of the valuable components, the minefield also prevented us from being able to get any closer than the Chinook.

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The ridges / hills which formed the various Argentine defensive lines that the British Troops had to overcome in order to reclaim the island.

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There are still 117 minefields containing approximately 25K anti-personnel and vehicle mines on the Falklands. A team of experts from Zimbabwe have been hired to clean up the island, it is a very slow and laborious process. To date about 4.5K mines have been cleared, there is a long way to go.

Slow Minefield

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The story associated with the painting of the Union Jack on the rock above is an interesting one, it is about one of the British Troops who, one night during the final advance on Stanley, leading his squad was wounded in both legs and was expected to die, his men propped him against the rock to await medical treatment, leaving him with his rifle and then went off to complete their objective. Apparently, whilst waiting, an Argentine patrol went past his position and he took them out. In the morning a medic arrived and he was still alive. The medic was able to save him and he was able to return to active duty within about twelve months. Unfortunately, I have not been able to find a full account of the story, will keep looking. This was the last landmark on the battlefields tour, which I would recommend to anyone, they also have a full day tour which takes in more sites.

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After the tour, I made a quick trip back to the ship, forgot my wallet, and caught the next tender back to Stanley, so that I could do some exploring on my own. Very near to the pier where our tender docks are a set of Jubilee Villas that were built in 1887 to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee.

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I liked Stanley, the weather was very mild and calm by midday, so the views across Port Stanley were great and made my exploration pleasant.

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This Church, Christ Church Cathedral, is the southernmost Anglican cathedral in the world and was  constructed between 1890 and 1892 using locally made / provided building materials

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This whalebone arch was built in 1933 to commemorate 100 hundred years of British rule in the Falklands

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There are a number of decaying wharves in Port Stanley, at the end of this wharf there the wreck of the Jhelum, who has been slowly rotting away like the wharf

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Some local wildlife

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Wandering along the waterfront

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Below is the monument to the SS Great Britain

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The local rag

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The Malvina House Hotel. This Hotel is not named for the Argentine name for the Falklands, the Malvinas Islands, but after the lady who built the place

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Below is the monument to those that were lost during the conflict in 1982

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Unfortunately it was time to go, so I had to return to the wharf to catch the tender back the Mariner

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I really enjoyed my time on the Falklands and would have like to have spent more time there, but not sure I would need to return, who knows, maybe one day. The only negative I have with the Falklands is that I could not find a decent meat pie, looked everywhere, but no joy.

One item I did find very interesting about the Falklands is that Argentina has never had an outpost on the islands, and that the British were the first people to settle the Islands. They have decided that they want to remain British and not to join Argentina, so I am not really sure what the Argentine Government is using as a basis for their claims to the islands.

According to the locals, the British Royal Air Force base on the islands has enough aircraft to be able to handle the entire Argentine Air Force, and there is an early warning system in place now that would ensure that a sneak attach is unlikely. The probable reason why Argentina is interested in the Falklands is the discovery of oil within the territorial waters. When the oil production begins, and I am not sure that a decision to start drilling has been made, the quiet Falkland Islands will become a very wealthy spot in the middle of the Atlantic.

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Day 16 – Night – A Progressive Gastronomic and Oenological Adventure

Day 16 – Night – A Progressive Gastronomic and Oenological Adventure

Earlier in the cruise I was thinking about how to get the most out of a dinner, and came up with the idea of arranging a progressive dinner. On the Mariner there are 4 restaurants, so four courses, and 5 bars, our journey tonight took us to each of the restaurants and to two of the bars, the other three bars are not exactly vibrant.

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The gang at the start of the night. From left to right Front row: Jane, Me, Kathi Back row: Don, James, Sean

We believe that this was the first time that a progressive dinner had been arranged onboard the Mariner, it was pretty easy for us to organise as Gerry, with the help of the Maitre D’s, did all the hard work, including the selection of the wines. For those of you who are not familiar with a progressive dinner, the way it works is that you have one course in each location, in this case each of the restaurants onboard, progressing from one location to the next after each course.

Our first stop was the Observation Lounge, which is on Deck 12 at the bow of the ship, for a pre-dinner drink.

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From the Observation Lounge we made the long journey to Sette Mari on Deck 11, Aft. On the way aft I noticed that the pool had been emptied, not sure why this was the case, but it was either for cleaning or as a safety precaution, possibly because of potentially rough weather ahead.

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It was time for a our first course, appertisers and a very nice bottle of 2008 Antonori Cervaro della Salla. An Italian style Chardonnay, a wine which is more complex and less buttery than most Australian or Nappa Valley Chardonnays, which I am not regular a fan of. I would look for this again, the few years of age also enhanced the wine. Thanks to Gerry for picking this out!

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Appetisers in Sette Mari are traditional Italian Style, and a very good way to start of our Gastronomic Adventure through the ship.

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Our table in Compass Rose

We had a schedule to keep, 30 mins in Sette Mari, then it was time for our soup and sorbet course in Compass Rose, which is on Deck 5 mid-ships aft

In Compass Rose Gerry had picked out a bottle of  2011 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir from Dundee Hills in Oregon for us. which was very enjoyable. The Pinot Noirs from Oregon are cool climate and well worth a try, this one is no exception, not as big as some of the Australian Pinot Noirs, everyone seemed to enjoy it. Would like to give this a few more years to see how it develops.

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For my soup I had the  beef consume.

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As we were about to leave Compass Rose, one of the Restaurant Managers freaked out as he thought we were leaving because we were unhappy with the meal, obviously he did not get the memo. Just shows how much the crew care about ensuring every guest enjoys themselves!

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Before the dinner we had to make a very difficult decision, where to have the main and dessert courses. Eric the Maitre ‘D of Signatures lobbied us for the dessert course and promised us that it would be special! So we went with Prime 7 for the main course, which is next door to Compass Rose on deck 5.

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Now for the Main Course, and a Magnum of Prima. A Spanish Blend that was just the right wine for our Mains, this wine was picked by Don and decanted by Arthur.

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Prime 7 is known for its steaks and seafood, but tonight I decided to change things up a bit and had the pan-fried chicken, the looks from everyone else were priceless 🙂 Will have to have the chicken again, it was excellent.

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As usually happens when you are having a good time, you lose track of the time and forget to take pictures (maybe that was due to the wine), which was no different this time, so we were about 30 mins late when we arrived in Signatures, which is on deck 6 midships.

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Eric had told us that he would look after us with a special dessert, he was not wrong. We crepe suzzette, unfortunately, due to safety concerns, it is not possible to cook them at the table, but they were still excellent. To accompany the dessert we had a bottle of dessert wine which Kathi had purchased from I think it was the Tabali winery which we visited whilst docked in Coquimbo. Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of the bottle.

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Even though we had finished our dinner, the night was not over. We had one more location to visit and to finish off the night in style. Next stop was the Horizon Bar, deck 6 aft, where Gerry had decanted a bottle of 1947 Seppelts Para  Liqueur Port that I bought on the cruise.

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Gerry surprised us with by paring the Port with chocolate, the perfect match. I was a bit worried that the Port would not travel, as far as I know it had journeyed from Australia to Singapore to Lima by aircraft and then to the South Atlantic by ship. It was excellent, and just what was needed to ensure that we  finished off a great night appropriately.

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We all made it to the end!

 This night was only possible because of the help of the crew, especially Gerry and the Restaurant Maitre D’s. I am not sure if another Cruise Line would have made this a reality, let alone approved it!

Today would have to be one of my favourite days at sea and will be trying to arrange a similar dinner on my next cruise, just hope that we are allowed to do it again 🙂

Tomorrow we visit Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

Day 16 – Cruising the Atlantic, En Route to Port Stanley

Day 16 – Cruising the Atlantic, En Route to Port Stanley

Today we are at sea, but it is not going to be a relaxing day, not as much relaxing as usual. To start with we have the wine and cheese tasting I won in the Crew Welfare Fund Auction followed by a progressive dinner, more on that later.

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At about 11am we were met by Gerry, the Cellar Master, and her husband Anatoly, one of the senior F&B Managers on-board, at reception and then off to the bakery.

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As the tasting was for 6, I had to find some willing participants, that was not hard! For those who are worried about travelling alone, Regent goes out of its way to make sure that you are not alone.

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 On this trip I did not attend any of the Solo Traveller events, as a couple I had met on my first cruise, Kathi and Don were on the same cruise, and we became fast friends, within the first day or so, with Jane, James and Shaun.

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Gerry and her team did a great job of setting up the bakery for the tasting, including fresh bread and cheese to accompany the wine. which were personally selected by Gerry.

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We were even welcomed by the head baker as he was preparing for lunch, he had everything organised, so we did not impact the supply of bread for lunch, otherwise we would have been the most hated onboard because the rest of the passengers would have had no bread sticks to have with lunch 🙂

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First wine up was a 2007 La Moynerie Pouilly Fume, which is made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes. I am not a big fan of  Sauvignon Blanc, but this was a nice wine to start with and is a wine that would be good to enjoy on a warm afternoon.

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Liked the bright colours of the whites we tasted.

The second wine, we have had a few times and, whilst I am not a big fan of chardonnay, I do like the Pouily Fusse from Laboure Roi, another quaffing wine for a warm day

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Gerry provided us with an education on Pouilly Fume and Pouilly Fusse, the former being made from Sauvignon Blanc and the later being made from chardonnay. She also taught us about AOC, Appellation d’origine contrôlée, which is responsible for the enforcement of a French law on viticultural designations of origin. This is the same mob who were responsible for the lobbying to prevent other regions / countries from using terms like Champagne and Hermitage to label wines. France is not the only country who have this sort of organisation to manage the labeling of wine and other locally grown / produced products.

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After the whites it was time for the reds!!!

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First up was a bottle of 2001 Chateau Coudert, Saint Emilon Grand Cru. Gerry explained how St Emilion wine quality is classified, Grand Cru is the second tier, Premier Grand Cru being the highest quality. We all enjoyed the wine and we discussed the need to include food as a part of the tasting of wine, and the types of food and wine that compliment each other.

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Next up was an Italian wine, a 2006 Badia a Passignano, Chianti Classico DOCG.

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Whilst we were tasting the wine, Gerry informed us about DOCG, Denominazione di origine controllata, the Italian body responsible for quality assurance of wine and cheese, similar to the French AOC. DOCG ensures the origin of the wine. One major difference between the French and Italian bodies is that the Italian body tests the wine, before it is bottled, to confirm the origin of the wine.

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I liked the Chianti, will be keeping my eye out for it.

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The final wine of the tasting was my favourite, a 2007 Banfi SummuS.

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Gerry had this decanted, allowing it to breathe. When tasted with the cheese all of the various flavours were evident, wanted to have more of this wine, probably with a steak, but unfortunately it was not for sale on-board.

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We really enjoyed the tasting, Gerry really put a lot of effort into arranging this and it showed. What a great way to enjoy a day at sea, or anywhere 🙂

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As we were finishing up, Arthur, the Sommelier from Prime 7 , decided to check in on us. He always goes out of his way to make sure dinner in Prime 7 is always an event, more than a meal.

This event is another reason why the Regent experience is unlike any other and worth it!

Time to relax and get ready for the next event of the day, after lunch of course, a cigar and drink followed by the progressive dinner.