São Vicente, Cape Verde is where I had my first steps in Africa… Well a part of Africa as it is around 450kms (300miles) off of the west coast of the African Continent.
BTW the country tag line for Cape Verde is “No Stress”, I can see why.
São Vicente was discovered by the Portuguese on Saint Vincent’s Day in 1462, hence the name. However, due to its arid landscape and lack of significant natural resources, it remained largely uninhabited for centuries, primarily serving as a place to graze cattle. I did not see a single cow whilst we were traversing São Vicente, though they could have been on the other side of the island.
In the 19th century this all changed due to its location and safe and deep anchorage, the British established a coaling station there to refuel the steamships that were traversing the Atlantic. Transforming Mindelo, the largest city on São Vicente into a thriving and cosmopolitan city. It was a very quiet place on the Sunday we were there.
The influx of international merchants, and ideas create a unique cultural melting pot, making Mindelo the cultural capital of Cape Verde. It even has its own Carnivale… Seems to be a theme. I wonder if you could do a cruise up the coast of Brazil and across to Cape Verde that would take in each port’s Carnivale. Maybe something I should suggest to Regent???
Arrival – São Vicente
The island with the white building, which is a lighthouse, is called Ilhéu dos Pássaros, the Island of the Birds.
Today’s Tour – Highlights of Cape Verde
See the world from atop a volcano, discover arid but productive valleys and walk white sands nestled against black lava cliffs on this panoramic coach tour.
Ascend to the top of volcanic Monte Verde, the highest point on São Vicente, for sweeping vistas of the entire island. You’ll see lovely Mindelo and the eastern-shore beaches from your vantage point and appreciate the plant life and garden crops such as corn, sweet potatoes and bananas. Descend to Baja das Gatas, or Catfish Bay, and its sheltered lagoon created by volcanic eruptions spanning centuries.
At Praia Grande beach, notice the stark contrast of the white sand against the backdrop of black lava mountains as you enjoy a pontche, a traditional island cocktail made with sugarcane molasses and grogue, the national liqueur of Cape Verde.
Passing through an agricultural valley, find the stream that provides the island with much-needed irrigation. You’ll learn that despite São Vicente’s discovery in 1462, it wasn’t developed until the 19th century because of its arid nature and lack of substantial water sources, adding to your understanding of this enthralling island.
- – Encounter sweeping views of the entire island from Monte Verde, São Vicente’s highest point.
- – View Catfish Bay, a lagoon formed by volcanic activity during centuries past.
- – Appreciate the contrast of black lava mountains against the white sands of Praia Grande beach.
Mindelo
Mindelo is the capital of São Vicente and, according to Gemini (Google’s AI):
“It’s a place where the soulful melodies of morna and the lively rhythms of coladeira spill out from bustling cafés and onto cobblestone streets, and where a rich tapestry of history, art, and natural beauty captivates every visitor.”
This dog had the right idea.. It was already warm mid-morning and it was a Sunday after all.
Centro de Controlo de Tráfego Marítimo
The hill on which the Centro de Controlo de Tráfego Marítimo is situated was our next stop. It provided a great view of the port.
The RSS Splendor
Drive to Monte Verde
Next up was a bus ride up to Monte Verde, which is 744m (2440 feet) high and is the highest peak on São Vicente.
One of the passengers had a significant aversion to heights and asked to be left at the base of Monte Verde. We had one of the ship’s Excursions Team on the tour with us and she stayed with the passenger whilst we went up to the peak. They apparently had a nice time checking out the area around the drop off point whilst waiting for us to return.
Monte Verde
It was a lot cooler at the peak than down on the flats, with decent wind as well and great views of São Vicente.
It is definitely worth the time to go up to the peak of Monte Verde, great views. If you are fit and adventurous you can hike up to the peak as well, there were a few groups doing this, though I don’t think this would be a good idea if you only had a day in Cape Verde like we did. You would not get to see the rest of the place.
Road Trip to Baja das Gatas Beach
The Beaches of Cape Verde….
Next up on our tour were a couple of beaches, first up was Baja das Gatas followed by Praia Grande.
Baja das Gatas
Whilst we were checking out the Baja das Gatas a bus rocked up filled with a soccer (football for my non-Australian and American friends) team arrived, followed shortly after by a ute with two thrones.
The team had apparently won their championship or a tournament the day before and were celebrating. Although they looked a bit subdued, maybe a big night?? I am not sure what the thrones were for. Possibly a proposal and / or a marketing stunt, could be both. I love how you can come across the most abstract sort of thing whilst travelling.
Praia Grande Beach
At the next beach, Praia Grande, we were able to get to the water’s edge without have to clamber down a few dunes. If it wasn’t for all of the tourists (us) this would be a great place to chill 🙂
We passed this cafe on the way to the Turtle Sanctuary. It would have been interesting to stop here and see what was on the menu for lunch!
Turtle Sanctuary
After another short trip we arrived a small sea-side village where we got to visit a Turtle Sanctuary. Unfortunately I was not able to find the name of this place. I am guessing that it is a part of Biosfera. Biosfera is an organisation that was established to care for the ocean and the sea life areas surrounding São Vicente, Cape Verde.
This place rehabilitates injured turtles and allows “orphaned” turtles time to grow before being released back into the ocean
One thing that I only recently realised is that we did not get harassed by anyone at the sanctuary to make a donation or buy something. A good thing in one way I guess. I doubt too many of us would have been that upset if we had been asked by the tour guide if we would like to donate to help the sanctuary team keep up the great work.
The Turtle Sanctuary was the furthest point out on our tour and it was time to head back to Mindelo to, you guessed it, an arts and crafts market.
The Cape Verde Countryside
As we approached the outskirts of Mindelo we passed the local cemetary.
I am guessing that when this place was started that it was fairly remote. It is now surrounded by apartments and houses. Guessing it might be considered as prime land.
Mindelo Arts and Crafts Market Mosaics
I liked the tiled mosaics that adorned the walls of the fixed market stalls. They depicted various aspects of the history of and life in Mindelo and on Cape Verde. I found it interesting that the vast majority of these stalls were closed considering that there was a cruise ship in town. Possibly because it was a Sunday, but…
Sailfish
There were a number of game fishing boats moored in the marina. Guessing that sailfish are the game that these go looking for.
Laginha Beach
How beautiful is this beach. The colour of the water combined with the constant waves creates a very inviting shade of turquoise.
I am definitely glad myself and one of the other passengers on the bus asked the driver to stop and let us get out and take a few photos.
Back to the Ship
After a short drive from Laginha Beach we arrived back at the wharf. As we weren’t sailing for a while I decided to go for a bit of a wander.
Along the wharf itself a lot of ships have left their “signatures” on the walls. Seems like quite a few ships stop here as a part of a world cruise.
The Tour
As far as “Highlights” tours go, this one was pretty good. Our guide was engaging and knew when to talk and when to chill. The local drink, pontche, was not bad, a nice touch.
Fortim d’El Rei
There is one building that you could see from most points within Mindelo and that is the Fortim d’El Rei, the King’s Little Fort. Originally it was built to protect Mindelo, it then became a prison in around 1930. An interesting location for a prison considering it probably has some of the best vistas in Cape Verde.
Fortim d’El Rei ceased being used as a prison in the 1970’s, since then it has not been maintained so is crumbling..
São Vicente, Cape Verde Sail Away
The sun and the haze made it a bit of a challenge to get great shots of the very attractive views as we sailed from São Vicente. A shame, though not much any of us can do about the weather.
Cape Verde
Cape Verde is definitely worth a visit. Expect that a few days on São Vicente would give you ample time to see the sights. Not sure what the hotel or restaurant scene is like, though you would be visiting for the beaches more than anything else. Expect that the local seafood would be the go to for food.
Chartreuse
Tonight’s dinner was in Chartreuse, the ship’s French Restaurant.
On previous cruises Chartreuse and it’s previous incarnation, Signatures, have always provided me with some of my most memorable meals on board. I wonder how this will be on board the RSS Splendor.
For dinner I had:
– Escargots à l’Ail façon Chartreuse – Sautéed Snails, Garlic, Herb Purée, Braised Rutabaga, Anchovy & Pommery Mustard Cream- – Steak Tartare et Caviar – Hand-Cut Black Angus Beef Tartare, Hazelnut Oil, Sturgeon Caviar, Dijon Mustard Dressing
- – Filet de Canard aux Navets et CerisesSeared Barbary Duck Breast, Glazed Turnips, Candied Morello Cherries, Sour Cherry Mustard
– Opéra Maison – Almond-Chocolate Cake, Chocolate Crémeux, Coffee-Chocolate Ganache
A really enjoyable meal, I hope I get to return to Chartreuse.
I decided to bring out a big gun wine a 2016 Alion. Awesome wine a definite 4 out 5. I wish I had more of these….
Next up is another relaxing two sea days on the way to Tenerife, Spain, with the Wine Connoisseurs Lunch on the second day..
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